Green building can be very confusing, so we want to help you understand the how’s and why’s. If you don’t find an answer to your question below, please contact our technical support team who can get you the answers you need.
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Green Building
What does “green building” mean?
In a general definition, green building is a worldwide movement to promote the use of environmentally friendly products & practices in de-construction, construction, remodeling & repair. The goal is to match materials and activities to building design so that the overall environmental impact is minimized as much as possible.
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What are VOCs & What makes something VOC-compliant?
VOC is an acronym for volatile organic compound. It is these compounds that react with atmospheric ozone, along with particulate, to form smog. Smog is thought to be a major contributor to air pollution and health problems, such as asthma.
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In 1991 the U.S. EPA passed the Clean Air Act with the specific intention of lowering smog levels. One way to do this is to reduce the amount of VOC’s available for release into the air. Hence, why parts of the country where smog is a greater problem have begun implementing regulations limiting the amount, or level, of VOC a product can contain. If your product VOC level is below the limit set forth in the regulations, then you can say that your product is VOC-compliant.
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What makes a product “green”?
Although the term is quite subjective, below are five categories into which most “green” products will be classified.
- Products made with salvaged, recycled or agricultural waste content
- Products that conserve natural resources
- Products that avoid toxic or other emissions
- Products that save energy or water
- Products that contribute to a safe, healthy built environment
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What is a “green” adhesive?
There are several criteria that can make an adhesive “green,” but the key ones for adhesives and sealants include products that are green because of what is not in them (such as hazardous air pollutants and ozone depletors); products that are green because they reduce the environmental impact of building operation (such as the energy efficiency gained from effective use of caulks and sealants); and products that contribute to a safe and healthy indoor environment (such as low-VOC or formaldehyde free adhesives)
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How can I tell if a product is “green”?
One key way to see if a product is “green” is to note the level of VOC’s the product has in it. The lower the VOC number, the more environmentally friendly that product will be. Since solvents represent a large portion of the VOC category, it also means that the solvent level in the product will be lower and it will probably be safer to work with.
Another indicator of green products is the amount of recycled content in either the product or the packaging, which ultimately helps to conserve resources.
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What are the benefits of going “green”? Why should I use “green” products?
- Improved air quality
- Less depletion of natural resources
- Energy Savings
- Potential tax breaks
- Potentially less health problems
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Who is “going green”?
- Retailers
- Professionals
- Consumers
- Corporations
- Distributors
- Government
- Non-profit organizations
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What are the differences in “green” rating systems? (LEED vs. NAHB vs. Green Seal)
See “Regulations & Organizations”
What states currently regulate VOC limits?
The following states currently regulate VOC emissions on consumer products (16oz or less). For a chart of these limits, click here.
- California
- Delaware
- Maine
- Maryland
- New Jersey
- New York
- Pennsylvania
- Virginia
- Washington, DC
- Michigan
- New Hampshire
- Connecticut
- Vermont
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How do I get Construction Adhesives off the surface of my project?
Water-based construction adhesives, such as Titebond GREENchoice™ Heavy Duty Construction Adhesive, may be cleaned with water when they are wet, but will require mineral spirits if they have dried. Polyurethane based products can be removed with mineral spirits before they have cured, and mechanical scraping or abrasion after full cure.
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How do I get two surfaces apart that were bonded with a Construction Adhesive?
Heating a bond made with any of our construction adhesives is generally the best approach to weakening it enough to allow separation or disassembly. While most adhesives weaken progressively as they increase in temperature, temperatures of 150°F or higher are often needed to have the desired effect. A heat gun is a good tool for this task.
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What adhesive works best on foamboard?
When a project involves foamboard, it is important to recognize that some construction adhesives contain solvents that can attack the foam. Titebond GREENchoice™ Heavy Duty Construction is recommended for bonding foam to porous surfaces. If the foam is being bonded to something non-porous these products cannot be used because they will not dry properly. In such a situation, Titebond GREENchoice™ Premium Polyurethane Construction adhesive would be recommended.
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What adhesive should be used to install a tub surround?
Titebond GREENchoice™ Heavy Duty Construction is also an appropriate product. For any of these products, the wall surface to which the surround is being installed needs to be porous. That means the surface should not be painted or primed, and any existing paint or glazing on any existing ceramic tile needs to be abraded to allow the adhesives to dry.
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Which adhesive should I use for installations involving metal?
Titebond GREENchoice™ Heavy Duty Construction would be appropriate if strength requirements are modest. It is important that the surface to which the metal is being bonded is porous and unpainted so that these products can dry. Titebond GREENchoice™ Premium Polyurethane Construction can be used for applications in which metal needs to be bonded to a non-porous surface.
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Which Construction Adhesives work best on wet, frozen, or treated lumber?
Titebond GREENchoice™ Premium Polyurethane Construction Adhesive, Titebond GREENchoice™ Heavy Duty Construction Adhesive and Titebond GREENchoice™ All Weather Subfloor Adhesive all perform well on wet, frozen, or treated lumber.
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Which Construction Adhesive works best for mirror installations?
Titebond GREENchoice™ Premium Polyurethane Construction is preferred for both plastic and glass mirrors. Regardless of the adhesive being used, it is important to use mechanical fasteners when working with heavy mirrors, and is required when installing mirrors in a public building.
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What is the drying time for Construction Adhesives?
Our solvent free products may reach full strength in twenty four hours under warm and dry conditions, but will require several days longer in damp or cool conditions. Polyurethane based products may reach full strength in twenty-four hours under warm and moist conditions, but take several days under dry conditions
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Can Construction Adhesives be used for exterior projects?
Yes, most of our Construction Adhesives have been formulated for exterior use but also require mechanical fasteners for most exterior jobs. None of our construction adhesives are recommended for applications below the water line or for continuous submersion in water.
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What is the expected coverage in lineal feet for Construction Adhesives?
The amount of lineal feet possible from a tube of construction adhesive is determined by the size of the bead. Typical recommended bead is a minimum ¼" diameter.
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What is the difference between a caulk & a sealant?
Caulks and sealants both prevent the passage of water between the bonded materials. However, the main difference between a caulk and a sealant is their ability to allow expansion. Sealants are made from elastomeric material that fills and seals joints that will expand or have movement. Sealants allow for horizontal and lateral movement and will return to its original shape when expansion releases. When choosing your application type, it is important to understand if what you are sealing will need the ability to move and stretch.
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What does elastomeric mean?
The term elastomeric refers to the ability of a material to elongate when a stress is applied and to return to original shape when the stress is removed. An elastomeric material is commonly referred to as a material that has memory.
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Are caulks & sealants paintable?
Not all caulks & sealants are paintable. Silicone-based products, including 100% Silicone Sealant as well as Kitchen & Bath Sealant CANNOT be painted. You should refer to the product packaging or technical data sheets for specifications on painting these products. Titebond®; Painter’s Caulk & Titebond Painter’s Plus Caulk are recommended for jobs that require paint.
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Are caulks & sealants mold & mildew resistant?
By nature, caulks and sealants will create bonds that are mold & mildew resistant. However, they do not stop mold that is already growing in an area or prevent mold from growing around the caulk or sealant. You need to be sure to follow some pre- and post-application steps to make sure mold & mildew growth will be prevented in the area of application.
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Before caulking, thoroughly clean any joint, gap or crack in which you will be applying caulk or sealant. All old caulk/sealant, dirt, oil, residues and most importantly any existing mold & mildew must be cleaned before any caulk or sealant can be applied. To remove the existing mold & mildew use a mixture of bleach and water with a non-abrasive scrub sponge on all surfaces where caulk is to be applied. (Do not use ammonia when using bleach. Bleach and ammonia combined produce dangerous gases. This can be harmful to your health. It is also recommended that when using bleach the area be well ventilated.) top
Once an area is caulked and has fully cured, the best way to prevent future mold & mildew is to wipe clean all areas after they get wet. Areas around the application may frequently collect pools of water and are prone to mold and mildew growth, which is bad for you and your home. Be sure to watch for areas that collect water and prevent mold & mildew growth by keeping the area dry.
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How do you clean up caulks & sealants?
For most caulks and sealants, tools and material can be cleaned with water when wet. Once dried, tools and excess material can be scraped clean. Silicones require mineral spirit cleanup. Follow solvent vendor’s precautions when using solvents. The specific cleaning directions can be found on the product’s packaging.
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Will clear caulk & sealant turn yellow after time?
No. Our caulks & sealants have a UV-barrier in them that does not allow the product to “yellow” over time.
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What is the best way to disassemble a glue joint?
The key to the disassembly of glue joints is weakening the bond. For Titebond Original and Titebond II, raising the glue joint temperature with a heat gun or a blow dryer will reduce the glue's strength. Steam from an iron may also work for Titebond Original. Placing a few drops of water on the edge of a joint made with Titebond Liquid Hide Glue will, after absorbed, cause the joint to weaken.
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What are the resulting colors when the Titebond Wood Glues dry?
Titebond® Ultimate - Light Brown
Titebond Original - Yellow
Titebond II Premium - Yellow
Titebond Dark - Brown
Titebond Liquid Hide - Transparent amber
Titebond Melamine - Colorless
Titebond Molding & Trim - Transparent with a light brown tint
Titebond Polyurethane - Yellowish amber
Titebond Home School - Colorless top
What is the "crackling effect"?
The "crackling effect" is a process that can give an antique appearance to just about anything. With this effect virtually anything will appear distinguishably aged. Traditionally, most hobbyists have used Titebond Liquid Hide Glue (Instructions) to achieve this effect.
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What does the term shelf life mean in regard to Titebond Wood Glues?
Shelf life is a conservative estimate of the minimum time period that we would expect a given product to remain usable, when stored as directed. This concept might also be called "useable service life" or "storage life", and it necessarily refers to both the physical handling properties and the ability of the product to perform properly. When used in reference to wood glues, reaching the stated shelf life does not mean that a product will "expire" or become unusable. Instead, we view the stated shelf life of most of our glues merely as a guideline to avoid potential aging concerns. In reality, as long as products like Titebond Original, Titebond II and Titebond® remain fluid, without drastic change in appearance, they will continue to perform as intended.
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What is the shelf life of Titebond Wood Glues?
Our literature states the shelf life of all of our glues as one year. Titebond Liquid Hide Glue includes an expiration date on the bottle, because it can progressively lose its ability to dry hard, and this change is not visually obvious. Titebond Polyurethane Glue has a one year shelf life in an unopened container, but is useable as long as the glue remains fluid. Polyurethanes, however, are designed to react when exposed to moisture and can sometimes begin to cure after the bottle has been opened, and solidify.
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Most of our yellow and white glues, including Titebond Original and Titebond II, remain usable beyond two years. Should Titebond Original become thick and stringy, or Titebond II turns into an orange colored gel, these changes signify that the glue is no longer usable. The minimum shelf life of Titebond® is stated as one year, when stored appropriately at room temperature. Titebond® is expected to last beyond its stated shelf life. If thickened, shake vigorously by firmly tapping bottle on a hard surface until product is restored to original form.
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Can Titebond Wood Glues be used for projects using teak, cedar or redwood?
Because a surface layer of oil or tannic acid tends to build up on these species, they can present a problem. For either type of wood, planing, jointing, or sanding shortly before bonding will remove the contaminating layer, and allow successful bonding. Otherwise, the surface being bonded will need to be wiped with acetone to remove the layer. Acetone dries quickly, and allows bonding almost immediately after the surfaces have been wiped.
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Are Titebond Glues safe to use?
All of our Titebond wood glues are safe to use and produce no harmful fumes. They meet the requirements of ASTM D4236 for safe use with arts and crafts. Titebond® Ultimate wood Glue and Titebond II Premium Wood Glue have both been approved for indirect food contact. For this reason, it is the glue that we recommend for making cutting boards. We do recommend wearing gloves when working with the Titebond Polyurethane Glue because repeated use of the product with bare hands could lead to a sensitivity to those types of products.
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What is the clamping and drying time of Titebond Wood Glues?
For most of our wood glues, we recommend clamping an unstressed joint for thirty minutes to an hour. Stressed joints need to be clamped for 24 hours. We recommend not stressing the new joint for at least 24 hours. For Titebond Polyurethane Glue, we recommend clamping for at least forty-five minutes. The glue is completely cured within 6 hours.
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Can Titebond Wood Glues be thinned?
Most of our wood glues can be thinned with water up to 5% by weight or by volume. Adding more than 5% water to our glues will decrease the bond strength. Titebond Liquid Hide Glue is thinned by gently heating the bottle in a pan of warm water. Titebond Polyurethane Glue may only be thinned by placing the bottle into a pan of warm water.
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Can surfaces that have been painted or stained be bonded using Titebond Wood Glues?
Most of our glues are designed to bond bare wood. Painting or staining a wood blocks the pores, keeping the glue from penetrating into the wood. The Titebond Polyurethane Glue may work for gluing together painted or stained surfaces, but it is necessary to remember that the overall bond will only be as strong as the bond between the paint and the wood. We recommend that all substrates be clean of any type of paint, stain, or sealer.
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How do I clean up wet glue or remove dried glue?
For most of our wood glues, it is often best to use a damp cloth and remove excess glue before it has dried. After the glues have dried, scraping or sanding works well. Steam from an iron may also be effective, but it will not take the glue out of the pores of the wood. When wet, the Titebond Polyurethane Glue may be removed with acetone, but it is much easier to chip off the foam after the glue has cured.
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What is the difference between the ANSI/HPVA Type I and Type II water-resistance specification?
Both of these tests are conducted using 6” by 6” birch laminates glued together to make three-ply plywood. The test for Type I is clearly more stringent than Type II, and involves boiling the glue bonds and testing the specimens while they are wet.
Type I testing involves cutting the 6" by 6" assemblies into 1" by 3" specimens, boiling them for 4 hours, then baking the specimens in a 145°F oven for 20 hours. They are boiled for an additional 4 hours, then immediately cooled using running water. The specimens are sheared while wet, and the bonds must pass certain strength and wood failure requirements to pass the Type I specification.
Type II testing involves cutting the 6" by 6" assemblies into 2" by 5" specimens, soaking them for 4 hours, then baking the specimens in a 120°F oven for 19 hours. This is repeated for a total of three cycles, and the bonds must not delaminate to pass the Type II specification.
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How does Titebond® compare to polyurethane glues?
While polyurethane glues bond well to a variety of materials, Titebond® is superior in many ways. In addition to excellent water-resistance, it provides a stronger bond on wood-to-wood applications, doesn't foam and requires less clamp time. Titebond ® has no health issues, doesn't require the use of gloves and cleans up with water. It is significantly less expensive than polyurethane glues and offers similar coverage rates. top
Why should I use Titebond ® instead of Titebond II or the other Titebond Wood Glues?
While all Titebond products provide superior performance, Titebond® is especially useful for outdoor applications in cooler temperatures or when concern for substantial moisture calls for the use of a Type I glue. For interior applications, the longer working time of Titebond® provides woodworkers the necessary latitude to ensure that substrates are precisely aligned before being bonded. Overall, Titebond® combines superior strength, Type I water-resistance, long open time and low chalk temperature into one easy-to-use formulation.
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Why is my wood floor curling or cupping after installation?
Wood flooring curls or cups because the bottom of the flooring has become higher in moisture than the top. This situation can reflect moisture absorbed from some flooring adhesives or may indicate high moisture levels in the subfloor itself. While changes due to the moisture from an adhesive are temporary because the amount of moisture involved is limited and soon evens out, moisture from the subfloor is often a more severe and recurring problem.
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May I use your adhesive over cutback?
Franklin recommends the removal of black cutback or other adhesives before the use of our products, for two reasons. First, we often find that the adhesive already on the floor is not well anchored or is so weak that routine movement in the floor tears it apart. The second concern is that one of the adhesives involved may affect the other, changing its capabilities and, ultimately affecting the anchorage of the floor.
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How do I remove black cutback adhesive from the floor?
The preferred method for removal of any existing adhesive is mechanical. The bulk of the adhesive should be scraped from the subfloor using a tool like an ice scraper. The residue should then be abraded or sanded, taking care to minimize the amount of dust that is scattered around or inhaled. (Note: Do not sand any resilient products for they may contain asbestos fibers which may be harmful.) While discoloration from the old adhesive may remain, this process means that the new adhesive is bonding to a solid concrete or wood surface, which will allow good anchorage for the new floor.
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How do I get dried adhesive off the top of the floor?
Adhesive removal is easiest when the adhesive is still wet. Water based adhesives are removed with water, while urethane based adhesives are removed with mineral spirits. The best way to remove dried adhesive from the top of a wood floor depends on the adhesive that was used. While most dried adhesives can be removed using mineral spirits, polyurethane based adhesives which have been allowed to cure on top of the floor are difficult to remove. Test any products used on an uninstalled piece of flooring to ensure compatibility with flooring finish. Franklin is not responsible for any damage created by improper removal techniques.
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May I use your adhesives over a subfloor that has radiant heat?
Yes, any of our wood flooring adhesives can be used over radiant heated floors. Franklin Concrete Primer is recommended for lightweight concrete. We suggest that the system be turned off for a day or so before the installation. This process ensures that the adhesive will provide the necessary working time to install the floor. Once the floor is in place, the system can be turned back on, and the adhesive will not be affected by the operating temperature of the radiant heat system. The radiant heating system cannot exceed 85°F. during normal use.
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May I use your adhesives over vinyl tiles, rolled, or sheet goods?
Franklin wood flooring adhesives can be used over vinyl tiles, rolled or sheet goods as long as those tiles are well anchored and clean. We recommend the use of an ammonia based cleaning product to insure the removal of any wax that may have been applied to the tile.
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May I use your adhesives over concrete?
Yes, clean concrete is probably the most common surface to which wood flooring is bonded, and it serves as a good base for our adhesives. We do not recommend our adhesives for use over concrete that is high in moisture content or concrete that has been sealed or painted.
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How long until I may walk on the floor?
In general, excessive walking on the floor should not occur for several days. In particular, the floor should not be exposed to heavy traffic or furniture until the adhesive is near full strength. While polyurethane adhesives generally reach full strength within two days, other adhesives can take a week or more. If it is necessary to use a portion of the floor earlier, covering that portion with sheets of padded plywood, at least ½" thick, will spread the load involved and minimize any effect on the bond. When placing the plywood, take care not to scratch the surface of the new wood flooring.
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Do I need to roll the floor after installation?
No. Franklin International recommends walking the floor every two to three hours during the installation. Look for any adhesive on the surface of the flooring. Try to prevent any adhesive from curing on the surface of prefinished floor. Also, ensure the side gaps and end gaps of the flooring are snuggly fit together. As a result of these tasks, the floor is in effect being "rolled" and proper contact is achieved. Look for areas that begin to lift and place a weight on those areas until the adhesive has built enough strength to hold the flooring in place. After the adhesive has dried, remove and discard the weights and any wedges to allow the floor to have room for normal expansion and contraction.
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How do I read the lot numbers?
The first character in the lot number stands for the last number of the year that the glue was manufactured. The second character is always a letter, ranging from A to M. We do not use "I" because it resembles a "1". These twelve letters correspond to the twelve months of the year. The rest of the numbers in the lot number are for internal tracking purposes. Therefore, a product with the lot number 7A5268 was manufactured in January 1997.
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What do I use to glue plywood over concrete?
Franklin International recommends only the Titebond 811 Advantage for gluing plywood to concrete.
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To glue plywood substrate over concrete:
- Use 3/4" exterior-grade plywood that has been cut into 4' x 4' sections.
- Score plywood backside 3/8" deep every 8"-10" in order to relieve tension in plywood. (There should be 4-6 cuts in all 4' x 4' sheets.)
- Use a 1/4" x 1/4" square-notched trowel to apply adhesive to concrete.
- Set 4' x 4' sheets into wet adhesive.
- Add weight as necessary to ensure adhesive remains in contact with plywood as it cures.
- Allow adhesive to cure overnight before proceeding with the flooring installation. top
Why is Polyurethane Hot Melt technology better?
This technology utilizes many of the positive attributes in several different adhesives and combines them into one formula. These products provide strong, waterproof bonds, offer extremely fast set times and bond most common materials.
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What makes Polyurethane Hot Melt Adhesives stronger than conventional hot melts?
Polyurethane hot melts form an initial bond immediately upon cooling, similar to conventional hot melts. However, PUR's offer a second phase where the adhesive reacts with moisture to form an extremely strong chemical bond known as cross-linking. At this point, the adhesive actually penetrates both the substrate and the adhesive itself to make a "chain", thus making it much stronger, and more permanent, than traditional hot melt sticks.
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How much time does the cross-linking reaction take?
The cross-linking bond begins forming over a period of time ranging from hours to days and bond strength builds proportionately. But, keep in mind the initial bond has enough strength to allow assemblies to be machined or finished immediately after bonding and the adhesive has set. Load bearing joints should not be stressed for 24 - 48 hours, so that the cross-linking reaction can occur.
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Where does the moisture that fuels the reaction come from?
Moisture from the air and substrate fuel the reaction. The amount of moisture may affect the set time and cure time of the adhesive.
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Will the HiPURformer Polyurethane Hot Melts foam as they cure?
No, the foaming associated with pourable polyurethane glues will not occur with the polyurethane hot melts. You may experience excess "squeeze-out" similar to other glues, which can be easily removed from the surface.
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How do I get the adhesive off of my hands?
We strongly recommend that you wear gloves when using Titebond Polyurethane Hot Melt Adhesives. The adhesive is hot and may burn unprotected skin. However, if you do get the adhesive on your skin, wash thoroughly with soap or a pumice cleanser. Repeated washings may be necessary.
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How long does it take to heat the adhesive to working temperature?
It takes approximately 10 - 13 minutes for the adhesive to become liquid. It may appear thicker than traditional glues you may have used, but the product will flow nicely out of the cartridge. NOTE: Each new cartridge must be heated for at least 10 minutes. The green indicator light may remain on temporarily if the heat cylinder is hot from previous use.
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Once the adhesive has been heated, how long can I work until I need to recharge?
After the material has been heated to the working temperature, you will have approximately 20 minutes of "cordless" gluing. When it appears that the adhesive is becoming too thick to be extruded from the cartridge, place the cartridge back into the charger.
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Will I need to use clamps?
Although clamping or bracing can ensure a good bond, HiPURformer adhesives greatly reduce the need for this application. It is the ideal choice for woodworking, home repair and construction projects that are too difficult to reach and require a strong bond.
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Do the pieces need to fit tightly together?
Although it is best to work with materials that fit nicely together, or have a common surface area, the HiPURformer adhesives can bridge small gaps and fill irregularities in the materials. This allows the adhesive to ensure a strong, permanent bond for tough applications.
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Will the HiPURformer adhesives work on plastics?
There are literally thousands of plastic materials available today. While the adhesive is effective in bonding most plastics, we recommend that you "test" a small area before you apply adhesive to the actual project. Roughing up the plastic surface may help ensure a stronger bond.
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Will the HiPURformer adhesives work on metals?
There are several types of metal materials available today. While the adhesive is effective in bonding most metals, it is not intended for use on copper or metal alloys containing a high percentage of copper. In addition we recommend that you "test" a small area before you apply that adhesive to the actual project. Roughing up the metal surface may help insure a stronger bond.
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Is the HiPURformer Polyurethane Advanced Bonding System safe to use?
Yes. As with any electrical heating device, basic safety precautions should always be followed to reduce the risk of fire, electric shock and personal injury. In addition, we strongly recommend that you wear gloves when applying the adhesive. The HiPURformer adhesives are solvent free and nonflammable, and may be used for projects that may have indirect contact with food and/or food operations.
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How do I know if I have fresh HiPURformer adhesive?
First, Franklin affixes stickers with expiration dates (month and year) on the outside of all cartons of HiPURformer™ adhesives. Franklin also stamps the expiration date on the airtight foil pouches that contain the individual cartridges of adhesives. In addition, a three-digit Julian code denotes the week and year the adhesive was packaged. (For example, the code 405 indicates that the product was packaged the fifth week of 2004.) Shelf life of HiPURformer™ adhesive cartridges is one year from date of manufacture. top
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